Paros by Shannon

Paros is a different story from its little sister across the water - bigger, livelier, more going on, and it needs to be split by area to make sense of it. Naousa after dark is where the island comes alive: the old fishing harbour lights up, boats lined along the water, and the streets behind turn into one long stretch of bars and restaurants. But don't ignore Parikia, the main port town and the island's real year-round centre - get into the whitewashed backstreets and it rewards wandering without a plan. Base yourself near Ampelas and Naousa in summer (most of the best beaches and restaurants are 15-20 minutes away), or Parikia's Hotel Oasis for a quiet March trip. For me the best restaurant on the island is Siparos, a little out of town; the best hotel is Cosme, by a mile. Rent a car - the buses get packed - and take the 15-minute ferry from Pounta across to Antiparos, with wheels on both sides. Best time to visit: July for the full-energy version, or late winter and early March for the quiet, local, year-round side of the island.

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