Ever been on a date to a restaurant that you know only from hype and rumours, and with your beloved who isn’t remotely a foodie? She once told me she’d been avoiding food her whole life, until she met me. Now, I'm taking her to three-star restaurants for 15-course meals—now that’s true love!
I drive five hours from London knowing it could ruin my reputation if it all goes south and she is faced with lamb brain purée served in a goat skull with a silver straw as the first course. All the way there, that is my worry. Although, discovering a built-in mini fridge in the Range Rover's middle glove compartment at some point in hour-three makes me excited.
Ynyshir is hidden between the Artists Valley and Dyfi Estuary, a 16th Century Hunting Lodge that has been transformed into the iconic restaurant it is today. The destination has been pushing the boundaries of the culinary world for over seven years and is Wales’ only 2 Michelin Star restaurant, as well as being recognised as the best restaurant in the UK.
The drive to Ynyshir, which passes through stunning Welsh countryside, is unforgettable. We finally arrive at the hotel restaurant that Gareth Ward took over with his wife in the mid-2000s. The main manor house is picturesque, surrounded by smaller buildings offering overnight stays. The expansive property is a joy to stroll through, filled with a sense of place and history. We visit in late spring and are greeted by bright, sunny weather and lush greenery.
Dinner starts early, at 5:15 p.m. precisely. Initial drinks and an introduction to the evening are served in the bar. Without revealing too much, what follows is fun, unexpected, and delicious. All tables face the open kitchen, designed with dark and moody décor.
We are fortunate to sit at the kitchen table opposite the DJ—a middle-aged gentleman with a collection of 50–70 vinyl records and two turntables. The music, perfectly levelled, seems to coordinate with each course. The dishes focus on the ingredients, and the kitchen showcases the finest, without overwhelming them. Every dish is impeccable; a standout is the tuna toro and wagyu roll. Don’t be daunted by the 30-course menu online; the portions are small and served quickly, with each Japanese-inspired course beautifully presented.
The menu, prepaid at £385 per person, might seem steep to non-foodies. But for enthusiasts, it’s a bargain at £12 per course.
“Who cares about the opinion of a washed-up chef? Not you. What matters more is what my loved one thinks of the experience.”
Verdict: she declared it the best meal of her life, topping her local Japanese restaurant Sumi, The Ledbury, and Core.
Dinner wraps up around 9:15 p.m., and the tastefully designed and comfortable rooms — priced around £350 for a garden room — offer great value. A chef Gareth version of an egg and bacon McMuffin as a quick and late breakfast caps the 24-hour experience.
Would I recommend Ynyshir? Absolutely. (And so would she.) Go, while you can still get a booking.
Ynyshir Restaurant & Rooms,
Eglwys Fach, Machynlleth, SY20 8TA
