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Shannon Bennett's 3 Day Guide to Dining in Byron Bay
This might make for some awkward encounters next time I’m at the farmers’ market or grabbing coffee at The Gen, but here goes…
Byron Bay, like many small towns, is going through a tough time. The economy is not where it was 2 years ago, but it continues to pour its heart and soul into keeping the tourism trade alive.
Fortunately, we’ve seen an upturn in the amount of people permanently relocating to Byron. This keeps the quality of restaurants high and supports off-peak trade, giving businesses a better chance to thrive. Us locals could still do more though, and I'm hoping writing this guide might be a start.
DAY 1
11AM: Arrive via Ballina or Gold Coast airport
High Life Shake off the flight with a coffee and an easy lunch. For me, High Life edges out the General Store for the best quality coffee in the area. Tul (Tuldog to mates) is a cool, casual, but hugely knowledgeable patron of Highlife. He runs the show. The focus is revitalisation and wellness in our daily lives and it's accompanied by cool music and a loyal bunch of regulars. Order at the counter and check out the signature dishes on the blackboard and printed menu. You cannot go past the crispy brown rice cakes with homemade kimchi, avocado and a little salad with a side of mackerel. My partner loves the toad in the hole; 2 square pieces of sourdough bread, one with the circle cut out and a raw egg dropped into the middle then fried crispy in olive oil with salt and a little butter.
2PM: Check-in
Personally, I'd choose The Sunseeker for its price and I love that it doesn’t pretend to be anything other than a cool renovated motel. It's a 10-minute walk into the centre of the town. If no kids are involved, Raes is always great and Wategos has to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. You are guaranteed to swim with dolphins and, when in season, whales harbour just 50 metres from shore. Swim and chill out on the beach for the afternoon after you check in.
5PM: Pre-dinner drink
Downstairs at Raes
For a pre-dinner drink you can't go past the bar at Raes. You can grab a bike and ride down which only takes 10 minutes from town. The bar is simply a bunch of tables on the driveway looking out over the grass onto the beach. It’s always busy and has a great atmosphere. Book a table so you don’t miss out.
Dinner is back in town at a great little place called Bar Heather. I'm not a fan of these new wines that are 'natural'. I think it’s a jazzed up word for lazy wine making — oxidized and no terroir. It’s a shame that Heather has decided to focus on this style of wine but there’s plenty of alternatives. The front of house team are incredibly talented and can help with your wine choices. Chef Ollie Wong-Hee has created a menu that is unlike anything else in Byron Bay. I’ve never had a dish that wasn’t delicious. It’s creative but also designed to be eaten, not stared at. The atmosphere is bang on too – the fit-out is dark and sumptuous and the whole venue is intimate, so be prepared to squeeze in and book in advance.
Bar Heather
DAY 2
8AM: Morning walk and coffee
Go for a morning walk to the lighthouse. Take the special route and opposite Captain Cook's car park, walk right up the steep little hill and through the national park trail to the lighthouse. This is the lesser known back route to the lighthouse and is spectacularly beautiful. There’s only one trail and it can be steep in places but it’s worth it. Keep walking up past the lighthouse, enjoy the gorgeous views, then walk back down to Wategos via Kombi Cafe. Mike will look after you with a takeaway coffee. Finish the walk by continuing around to The Pass until you meet back up at Captain Cook's car park. The walk will take you about an hour.
10AM: Brunch
The General Store
Brunch at The General Store is a must. Owned by Zac Kennedy and Ben Gordon (Parkway Drive’s drummer), the food, coffee and service bat way above the their weight for small town Byron Bay. It has such a uniquely relaxing environment that your worries and any anxieties about the world just disappear. No bookings here, just walk ins and it’s always a quick turn around so getting a table isn’t hard.
1.30PM: Lunch
The Eltham Pub
Take a leisurely drive about 30 minutes inland past Bangalow. Just outside Clunes (which is also great for a quick stop) is an old world pub in the middle of a rainforest, on the road to nowhere. It’s got that authentic outback charm to it.
The Eltham was revitalized by a group of talented Melbournians a few years back, Matt Rabbidgem and Luke Sullivan who brought in chef Matt Stone (former Gourmet Traveller's Best New Talent winner) and his wife, Alana Sapwell-Stone. The food here is all laid out on an old fashioned menu board, counter meal style. They're pub classics with great ingredients and generous serves. The distinctive venue and its surrounding landscape make it well worth visit. On your way back to Byron, take the route through Tintenbar — you’ll drive right through the middle of a private 9-hole golf course. If golf is your game, you can even book a round. Either stop for a quick walk and swim at Killeen Falls, or stop in Newrybar where you’ll find some really cool shops and artisans. The drive back to Byron from Newrybar is about 20 minutes.
7.30PM: Dinner
Bang Bang
Controversial choice, as my favourite Asian dining in Byron is Lightyears, but this isn't about me. I want you to see as much of Byron Bay as possible. The reason I chose Bang Bang is because everyone I recommend it to absolutely loves the atmosphere, cocktails, and the food. Plus the team that own it are hard-working and deserve a mention. The food is a Thai style-greatest hits and Bang Bang is definitely a 'fork in the road' type venue where you can decide whether you’re going to have an early one or a big night out!
The General Store
DAY 3: LAST DAY
9AM: Morning walk and coffee
I have a lot in store for you today, starting with a morning walk along Belongil Beach. This is the dog beach which starts at the northern end of the main beach car park. Walk down to the treehouse and grab a coffee. It’s about a kilometre's walk along the beach and there’s no need for shoes. Mount Warning is in the background and if you’re visiting during the May to October season, it's highly likely that you’ll see whales. The treehouse is easy to spot, just off the main Belongil car park. It’s got an easy beach bar feel to it and is well loved by the locals. It’s not renowned for anything in particular but is just a very chilled vibe and the perfect place to drop in after a beach walk.
2PM: Lunch
The Hut
Book ahead of time for this lunch, so you don’t miss out! Make sure you allow 30 minutes to travel from Byron town centre to restaurant.
The food is southern Italian; simple but cooked with precision and love. Byron Bay Hinterland is the inspiration behind the rustic yet bright decor, which makes sense given its in the middle of the forest. On that note, don’t forget to book a taxi in advance because reception is patchy, although the boys will help you regardless.
The Hut was restored by my mates Anna and Matt Wilkinson. Chef Bruno and the boys took the event space over a few years ago and turned it into The Hut. It’s only open 4 lunches a week — that’s it. Thursday to Sunday. I love the late sitting of 3pm. I call it Linner. Just sit back and let the team cook for you. They use great local ingredients mixed with stuff you just don't buy at home like caviar and truffles. Take your time to indulge here because this is not your quick pit stop lunch. Kids are well catered for and there is plenty of room for them to run around outside.
6PM: Final evening
You Beauty Bar
Okay, it's cheeky but You Beauty is sort of on the way home. Make a booking for 5:30 or 6PM, and get the driver to drop you off for a quick bite and glass of wine to finish off the day. This cool little bar is always buzzing and boasts a menu of great little share dishes. You also get the chance to have a look around the small art deco town of Bangalow, which bats way above its weight when it comes to great food. During the day you cannot go past a little Japanese place (opposite You Beauty) called Mangosteen. They do tasty handrolls and it's truly a hidden gem for lunch.
9PM: Late-night gelato
Frankies Gelato Naturale
You have to swing by Frankies Gelato for a scoop! It's all homemade and my favourite is the Pistachio Affogato.
The Hut
DAY 4: FLY HOME
If your flight isn’t until early afternoon, go on an easy morning walk along the beach and make sure you grab a quick coffee and some sushi to-go from Federal Doma Cafe. It’s a 20-minute drive north in the Hinterland and only 10 minutes off the highway to Ballina or Gold Coast. This place is so unique. It’s set in the middle of a tiny rainforest town and the old school classrooms have been converted into a cool Japanese café that opens for breakfast and Lunch, where they serve super tasty burgers and sushi.
If you’re staying longer, I can share even more incredible places with you.
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